Needles are the tools of the trade you simply can't do without when it comes to knitting. Trust me I've tried substituting BBQ skewers (ok I was desperate because my needles were confiscated at the airport) or toothpicks for very small needles, and as you can imagine these substitutes utterly and completely failed.
Although all knitting needles essentially perform the same basic function, there are different kinds and styles available. Some needles are specific to a certain type of knitting project while others can create a variety of knitted items.
Knitting needles can be made out of a variety of materials, and they come in a variety of types. The major types are single pointed, double pointed, circular and specialty needles. So even the mere selection of the needles to use to knit a particular project can be complicated.
During the next few posts I'll be discussing each type of needle, when each type of needle can be best used and offer a few tips to keep in mind as you make your needle selection. There will also be a discussion about the materials used to make them and how that impacts your choice. Finally, the dreaded matter of getting the right sized needle for your project will be covered.
Let's start by discussing single pointed needles (SPNs). They are cleverly named because they have only one point that tapers into the true circumference or size of the needle with a stop at the opposite end. Most knitter learn to knit with SPNs because they are used to knit back and forth, turning the project from the right side to the wrong side for each new row knit. SPNs are then used primarily to make finished projects that must lay flat in one singular layer like dishcloths, scarves, or small blankets, and since these projects are rather easy to knit, beginners often start with them.
The type of taper on the point is important to consider when purchasing a pair of needles. If the point is very sharp finger tips can become tender (or maybe that's just me); if it is too blunt spearing a stitch to move it from one needle to the other can be more difficult because it is possible to separate the strands of yarn or it can more easily slip off the blunt needle. (BTW the sharp-pointed needles are used in knitting lace with very fine yarn.) Recognizing the right tip for what you want to knit can save a lot of headaches.
Also note the length of the taper in the three needles above. The more pointed needle also has a longer tapered tip than the other two. This long tip may impact how tight your knitting becomes on the needles. If the stitch is made over the tip it won't fit loosely around the wider circumference of the needle. This means the stitches may not easily slide from one needle to another.
Most SPN's range from 10" (25.5 cm) to 14" (35.5 cm) long. Needles need to be long enough to hold all the stitches required for the project, but I can speak from experience, having to knit with needles that are too long is annoying. (But then having to knit with needles too short is also annoying because the stitches fall off the needle every time you put your work down.) Image holding two 14" (25.5 cm) long sticks in your hands; then add the weight of your project; all this can get heavy. Additionally it is far too easy to get those long needles caught in your clothes. There are knitters who like to rest needles against their body to knit; SPNs will be the only ones that work for this type of knitter. I would discourage using this technique to knit because eventually you'll want to use other types of needles to expand your horizons to socks or afghans. My personal preference is to use the shortest possible needle to get the job done.
SPNs are rarely identified in pattern instructions. It is fair to assume if the designer didn't mention the type of knitting needles to use, SPNs will do the trick. Most new knitters start purchasing one pair of needles at a time, which is appropriate if you're not sure about your commitment to knitting. However, in the long run you will be much better off financially if you buy a set of needles in a variety of sizes. I bought my set while I was in college and remember it came to $30, a small fortune at the time. They're now nearly 40 years old and I still use them several times a year. I suspect a set cost more now, but I've been out of the market for decades.
Stay tuned, next post will cover double pointed needles.
Although all knitting needles essentially perform the same basic function, there are different kinds and styles available. Some needles are specific to a certain type of knitting project while others can create a variety of knitted items.
Knitting needles can be made out of a variety of materials, and they come in a variety of types. The major types are single pointed, double pointed, circular and specialty needles. So even the mere selection of the needles to use to knit a particular project can be complicated.
During the next few posts I'll be discussing each type of needle, when each type of needle can be best used and offer a few tips to keep in mind as you make your needle selection. There will also be a discussion about the materials used to make them and how that impacts your choice. Finally, the dreaded matter of getting the right sized needle for your project will be covered.
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| Examples of Single Pointed Needles |
Let's start by discussing single pointed needles (SPNs). They are cleverly named because they have only one point that tapers into the true circumference or size of the needle with a stop at the opposite end. Most knitter learn to knit with SPNs because they are used to knit back and forth, turning the project from the right side to the wrong side for each new row knit. SPNs are then used primarily to make finished projects that must lay flat in one singular layer like dishcloths, scarves, or small blankets, and since these projects are rather easy to knit, beginners often start with them.
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| The needle on the left is very sharply pointed while the one on the right is blunt |
Also note the length of the taper in the three needles above. The more pointed needle also has a longer tapered tip than the other two. This long tip may impact how tight your knitting becomes on the needles. If the stitch is made over the tip it won't fit loosely around the wider circumference of the needle. This means the stitches may not easily slide from one needle to another.
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| Both lengths of needles |
Most SPN's range from 10" (25.5 cm) to 14" (35.5 cm) long. Needles need to be long enough to hold all the stitches required for the project, but I can speak from experience, having to knit with needles that are too long is annoying. (But then having to knit with needles too short is also annoying because the stitches fall off the needle every time you put your work down.) Image holding two 14" (25.5 cm) long sticks in your hands; then add the weight of your project; all this can get heavy. Additionally it is far too easy to get those long needles caught in your clothes. There are knitters who like to rest needles against their body to knit; SPNs will be the only ones that work for this type of knitter. I would discourage using this technique to knit because eventually you'll want to use other types of needles to expand your horizons to socks or afghans. My personal preference is to use the shortest possible needle to get the job done.
SPNs are rarely identified in pattern instructions. It is fair to assume if the designer didn't mention the type of knitting needles to use, SPNs will do the trick. Most new knitters start purchasing one pair of needles at a time, which is appropriate if you're not sure about your commitment to knitting. However, in the long run you will be much better off financially if you buy a set of needles in a variety of sizes. I bought my set while I was in college and remember it came to $30, a small fortune at the time. They're now nearly 40 years old and I still use them several times a year. I suspect a set cost more now, but I've been out of the market for decades.
Stay tuned, next post will cover double pointed needles.
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