If one knits one substitutes yarns but it is tricky business. Today I want to spend a bit of time discussing why knitters substitute yarns and some things to keep in mind as we do it. (I have focused on this because one of my resolutions for 2015 is to knit down my stash. I will be be substituting yarn a lot this year.)
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Why do we substitute yarn?
Anyone who has knit more than a couple of projects from a pattern will be able to write this segment because we all have had to substitute yarn.
Most of the time knitters are using patterns designed by experts, if not knitting experts, at least experts in getting the type of fabric they want for a particular project. The designer has gone through several samples using different types of yarn in order to get the drape, sturdy structure, breezy see-through, dense or other type of fabric they have envisioned. The yarn mentioned in the pattern when knit to gauge will guarantee the same finished project. The problem is knitters aren't always able to locate the yarn in the pattern either because it isn't readily available to them, it is far outside their price point or it has been discontinued. So instead a substitute needs to be found.
Another reason some of us substitute yarn has to do with an entire stash of yarn that should be used and thus we substitute the yarn on hand for what is called for in the pattern.
If you don't substitute wisely the end product can be a disappointment. So here's just a few things to think about when substituting yarn.
Compare the Gauge.
Gauge refers to the number of stitches per inch or cm you will get from a particular weight of yarn using a particular sized needle. If one is going to substitute yarn the gauge for that new yarn needs to match the requirements of gauge in the pattern. For most knitters that means matching worsted weight with worsted weight yarn, lace with lace weight etc.
Most yarns come with the manufacturer's gauge printed on the band holding the yarn together. But when looking for a substitute you need to know your own knitting tension. I tend to knit loosely so I generally go down a needle size to get the same gauge. (I know this because I swatch a lot.) So even when I use exactly the same yarn and same needle size as recommended I might end up with a very different fabric. It is harped often in knitting that one needs to swatch and also block the swatch to see how the fabric changes during that process. I've found when I don't do this, things turn out very differently than planned like with this cowl:
Why do we substitute yarn?
Anyone who has knit more than a couple of projects from a pattern will be able to write this segment because we all have had to substitute yarn.
Most of the time knitters are using patterns designed by experts, if not knitting experts, at least experts in getting the type of fabric they want for a particular project. The designer has gone through several samples using different types of yarn in order to get the drape, sturdy structure, breezy see-through, dense or other type of fabric they have envisioned. The yarn mentioned in the pattern when knit to gauge will guarantee the same finished project. The problem is knitters aren't always able to locate the yarn in the pattern either because it isn't readily available to them, it is far outside their price point or it has been discontinued. So instead a substitute needs to be found.
Another reason some of us substitute yarn has to do with an entire stash of yarn that should be used and thus we substitute the yarn on hand for what is called for in the pattern.
If you don't substitute wisely the end product can be a disappointment. So here's just a few things to think about when substituting yarn.
Compare the Gauge.
Gauge refers to the number of stitches per inch or cm you will get from a particular weight of yarn using a particular sized needle. If one is going to substitute yarn the gauge for that new yarn needs to match the requirements of gauge in the pattern. For most knitters that means matching worsted weight with worsted weight yarn, lace with lace weight etc.
Most yarns come with the manufacturer's gauge printed on the band holding the yarn together. But when looking for a substitute you need to know your own knitting tension. I tend to knit loosely so I generally go down a needle size to get the same gauge. (I know this because I swatch a lot.) So even when I use exactly the same yarn and same needle size as recommended I might end up with a very different fabric. It is harped often in knitting that one needs to swatch and also block the swatch to see how the fabric changes during that process. I've found when I don't do this, things turn out very differently than planned like with this cowl:
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| My version not so light weight nor breezy |
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| Designer's vision |
Granted my example above was crocheted, but the results of ignoring gauge and blocking failed just the same.
Behaviour of the Yarn
How the yarn behaves or how it creates a certain type of fabrics is an important factor to consider in substituting. A cotton yarn will knit up sturdy and grow bigger as it is worn. Woolen yarns will retain their shape and mohair will have a fluffiness hard to get from any other type of yarn. What are the behaviours or characteristics of the pattern you want to knit that caused you to like it so much? Be sure the substitute yarn also has those qualities.
The example above in the photographs is a good one to illustrate this point too. The designer's yarn is 70% mohair and it is the stitch definition and fuzziness mohair offers that I really wanted. My version was made with a yarn containing much less than 70% mohair, so of course, I didn't get the same fabric. The fabric is fine BTW, just not that in the designer's photo.
The drape of the fabric is also important. Drape refers to how the fabric moves and hangs. Merino wool tends to move well and hold its shape. This is why it is often used in shawls. As mentioned earlier cotton will neither move nor hold its shape well. Lily Chan, a well-known knitting designer, suggests not only should a swatch be made, it should be hung on a wall to see how it drapes over time. I've never taken swatching this far but perhaps I should.
How Many Yards/Meters of Yarn do I need?
Finally, the two characteristics of gauge and behaviour will impact the amount of yarn you need to purchase. The pattern will suggest the amount of overall yardage you need if you use the yarn and gauge offered in it. Since yarns are packaged in different quantities a bit of simple algebra will help you make a conversion to insure you purchase the proper number of skeins or hanks of yarn.
However, your results might differ. So start by making sure you purchase no less yardage than is suggested. Additionally know something about your own knitting style. (My tension generally requires I purchase a bit more than the recommended amount of yarn.) If you are purchasing from a friendly LYS you might be able to purchase an extra hank in the same dye lot and return it if you don't need it. But no matter what the circumstances, do purchase enough yarn the first time around. Finding the same dye lot or a good substitute is very hard. (I know this from experience.)
Ravelry
Finally, this post would do a great disservice if it didn't mention the value of checking Ravelry. Since substituting yarn for me is due to my rather large stash, it is great to just type in the name of the yarn I am thinking about using and seeing how it has been used by others on the Ravelry website. A few pictures can help answer questions about the yarn behaviour and I can check my gauge with that of the pattern used. I use Ravelry to help make substituting decisions and it seems to me many yarn shops do the same thing when they are asked.
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So there you have it, a few ideas to keep in mind regarding picking a different yarn for your project.
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